ancient ruins need maintenance?

The second week of November I went to the Žižkov Television Tower in Prague. 

It was built in the late 1980s/early '90s and designed by the architect Václav Aulický and the structural engineer Jiří Kozák.

 

What are those tiny black dots along the sides of it, you ask?

Sculptures of babies of course! (I find this terribly odd...)

In 2000, sculptures by Czech artist David Černý of crawling babies were temporarily attached to the tower's pillars but made permanent in 2001. 

 There was a great view all around......

 So great in fact, that I could see the Acropolis from the tower!!!!!!

 Okay, not quite the real Acropolis, but I found it pretty humorous.

Anyway - 

So two weekends ago I was in Athens, Greece. 

I have dreamed of seeing the Acropolis my whole life. I was so anxious. I wanted my experience on the Acropolis to be perfect. 

It turned out to be different than I thought it would be....

As we're walking up to the Acropolis Friday morning, I found this sign. My architecture history professor, Dr. Schaffer, lectured about the approach to the Acropolis and the details of the structures on it, so I was ready to experience it! Sadly, there was a sign telling us, visitors, which way we're supposed to go.

I'm Greek! I don't need a silly map, I should be able to know where to walk. It's in my blood, right? Hahaha

The Propylaea is a monumental gateway that marks the entrance to the Acropolis.

Oh no, can it be? Do I see construction? Oh no. no. no. NO!

Yep. It's construction. I was so upset. I couldn't believe it. 

I had a hard time appreciating what I was seeing with the "artificial" things in the way.

For example. Look at these steps in the picture below. Hideous right? THESE steps are on the propylaea?! They could have built fake steps to look like the stone that's around it.

Ah yes, and of course, the lights! That's a great touch (that's sarcasm). 

The view from the steps up through the Propylaea was nice.

Alright, so the Propylaea was a slight disappointment, but I was ready to see the Parthenon.

In my history class, my professor told us that when one steps out of the Propylaea, one sees the Parthenon in perspective (meaning you see the Parthenon at an angle, you see the corner instead of the front side by itself). She shared her admiration for the Greeks designing it that way and I never felt more proud to be a Greek architecture student.

As I walked through the gate (pictured above), my heart rate quickened....

this is it! I'm going to see the best view ever!

And then......

 

Can it be? Can it really be a CRANE IN FRONT OF THE PARTHENON?!

I was crushed. I still am, looking at these images as I type this. Why does an ancient ruin need so much maintenance? I should be glad that the Greeks care enough to maintain it, but I wasn't expecting to see so much construction. I would've paid to have that crane moved!

I think it's beautiful as a ruin. So what if some columns are missing? So what if the color has changed over time? That's what makes it beautiful and meaningful to people.

The picture below is in front of the Erechtheion. Apparently, this temple is placed on the most sacred spot on the Acropolis. Do you see those female statues on the left-hand side of the picture? 

According to Wikipedia: A caryatid is a sculpted female figure serving as an architectural support taking the place of a column or a pillar supporting an entablature on her head. The Greek term karyatides literally means "maidens of Karyai", an ancient town of Peloponnese.

I found out later, that the ones below aren't the real Caryatids. Gee, really?! Five of the original ones are in the Acropolis Museum and the 6th is in the British Museum.

 

 

 As an architecture student, how can I go to the Acropolis and not draw? Abe and I spent 4 hours there drawing. We didn't want to leave. I however, wasn't feeling so good about the construction, so I had a hard time drawing. The picture below isn't perfect (i need to work on perspectives) and columns are the most difficult thing to draw. 

I used pen, charcoal, and even indian ink to draw the Parthenon. Silly me, I stood up holding my indian ink, turned around, and spilled ink on my pants. To ruin my mood even more right? Haha oh goodness. But now, I have this epic ink stain on my pants that I wear proudly, since I got it on the Acropolis!

Even though I was upset about all of the maintenance and cranes, I am glad I went. 

I am so proud to be a Greek American and to have such an amazing Greek heritage filled with such rich culture, history, and wonderful architecture.

I will definitely go back to the Acropolis.

And I'll be sure not to spill any ink on my pants again...

I am here. I am here. I am here. I am here.

From Thursday, November 15, until Sunday, November 18, I was in Athens, Greece, with my classmate Abe. 

This was my first time in Greece. 

There was so much crammed into three days. 

I have plenty to say, but for now, I'll tease you with just a hint of the first night I was there. 

Our hostel, City Circus, had a roof terrace, so Thursday night around dinner we went up there.

This was the view (stunning, right?):

Could it be? Could it really be the acropolis in the distance? 

Wow. 

I couldn't believe I could see the acropolis from my hostel's terrace. 

I had to keep telling myself over and over that I was indeed staring at the acropolis. 

I am in Athens.

I am here. 

I am here.

I am here.

I am here.

Later that night at dinner, I tried ouzo. 

If you don't know what ouzo is, google it.

It's in My Big Fat Greek Wedding (the movie).

Anyway - 

I've heard that it tastes like licorice.  

It doesn't look like that big of a glass (see below), but it was plenty!

I barely put any on my lips as I tasted it, and I bet my face looked just like the one of a toddler trying grapefruit/lemon for the first time.

I thought it was absolutely disgusting.

Ew. Yuck.

The waitress said I could put water in it to water it down, but when i added more water it still tasted just as intense.

Well, that's it for now. I think I'm getting sick. Ugh, lovely. 

More to come though. 

Please hang tight till I write the next post.

Opa! 

graffiti, history, and a wall

Yesterday I went to Lesser Town in Prague to visit the John Lennon Peace Wall. You know John Lennon right? From The Beatles? "Yellow Submarine"? "I Wanna Hold Your Hand"? The John Lennon wall is a place in Prague where they commemorate his strong lyrics and activist role for peace.

Normally I wouldn't just copy and paste something from the internet, but I'm in a time crunch today, so here is a brief history on the wall:

Prior to 1989 when communism ruled, western pop songs were banned by Communist authorities, and especially John Lennon´s songs, because it was praising freedom that didn’t exist [ in Czech Republic ].

When John Lennon was murdered in 1980 he became a sort of hero to some of the young and his picture was painted on this wall, [….] along with graffiti defying the authorities. Don’t forget that back then the Czech people had few opportunities to express their feelings with their lack of freedom. By doing this, those young activists risked prison for what authorities called “subversive activities against the state.”

But the threat of prison couldn’t keep people from slipping there at night to scrawl graffiti first in the form of Beatles lyrics and odes to Lennon, then they came to paint their own feelings and dreams on the wall.

The Communist police tried repeatedly to whitewash over the portrait and messages of peace but they could never manage to keep the wall clean. On the second day it was again full of poems and flowers with paintings of Lennon. Even the installation of surveillance cameras and the posting of an overnight guard couldn’t stop the opinions from being expressed.

[….] It used to be covered in anti-Communist graffiti, now it is covered in messages of love and peace. The original portrait of Lennon is long lost under the layers of new paints but if you look hard enough you can still find tributes to Lennon [….].

The Lennon Wall represented not only a memorial to John Lennon and his ideas for peace, but also a monument to free speech and the non-violent rebellion of Czech youth against the regime [….]

source: ( http://www.prague.net/john-lennon-wall )

This is the approach up to the wall. I didn't think the wall itself would be this long. At first there were a lot of people, but after just a few minutes people began to leave. 

I brought a marker with me and decided to write my name on the wall.

I couldn't believe it - there was a Greek flag!! 

I think it would be interesting to go back to the John Lennon Wall every week or so and see how the graffiti has changed. It's interesting how back home in the USA graffiti is seen as something "unpleasant" or a signature of gangs, but on this wall the graffiti is seen as a protest and honored for its outspoken nature against a government in the wrong. 

 This wall reminds me of the Freedom Expression Tunnel we have back at North Carolina State University. Students paint graffiti on the entire tunnel: ceiling, walls, floors, and handrails.  

This tunnel and the John Lennon Wall are both respected forms of protest. In my three years at State, I have never painted or written anything in the Freedom Expression Tunnel, but I wrote my name on a wall that I was only around for 20 minutes in Prague. I am eager to go back to the John Lennon Wall and paint/draw something. 

I'm happy that I left my own mark in support of the meaning behind this wall with my own pen "Nicole Fall 2012." Now I am one of the many who will eventually become part of all of the layers of history on the wall. 

All you need is love (and a good wall for graffiti!) ! 

Altes Museum

As a sophomore architecture student at NCSU I took two History of Architecture classes.  Out of many lectures, buildings, and architects, my favorite one studied was on the Altes Museum.  It was designed by the architect Karl Friedrich Schinkel in the neoclassical style of architecture, built during the 1820s, and is located in Berlin, Germany, on Museum Island.  My professor, Dr. Kristen Schaffer, talked about this museum for an entire class, and she rarely dedicated a whole lecture to one building. I never thought anyone could talk about a building for an hour and fifteen minutes, but she was so enthused about its design.  I soaked up every word.

When my current Prague Institute professor said we were taking a class trip to Berlin, the first thing I thought was “Are we going to the Altes Museum?!” Sadly, that wasn’t part of our itinerary so I had to make my own plans to insure that I would see this historical building.

When we found out the location of our hostel, we realized we were just a few blocks away from the Altes Museum. So one morning we got up early and went to the museum to draw at 6:45 a.m.

The two pictures below were taken one hour apart from each other. The one on top was taken at 6:45 a.m. while the one below was at 7:45 a.m.  I prefer the bottom picture because the wall behind the colonnade looks uniform and doesn’t draw attention to a certain part like the one above does. The lights for the lobby are too overpowering, especially early in the morning.

Here it is in plan:

source: http://www.GreatBuildings.com/cgi-bin/gbc-drawing.cgi/Altes_Museum.html/Altes_Plan_2.jpg

During my time abroad I have drawn on only one page at a time in my spiral sketchbook.  The horizontal nature of the building, it is longer than it is tall, provoked me to capture it horizontally in my sketch. So I drew across the spiral binding.

What’s interesting is that the colonnade is only on the front of the museum.

This is taken from right behind the colonnade on the outside of the building.

The entry is situated between columns.  Notice the glass between the columns? Yeah, nice touch huh? The glass runs across the whole lobby space between columns. Aren’t the steel columns a nice touch too? And look at the detailing of how the glass fits against the column. Right, because that makes the museum airtight? (total sarcasm). 
Schinkel designed it so that it was completely open into the space inside without a glass barrier between the inside of the museum and the outside.  Standing there I realized that, yes, being completely open to the outdoors may not be best for the artwork in the galleries, but the glass is so artificial looking and isn’t part of the original design.

Immediately upon entering the museum, the visitor is faced with a dilemma: the visitor is standing before a wall that has a punched opening in the middle of the wall leaving the visitor confused about how to reach the second story.  
From other museums, mostly contemporary designs, that I have visited, the staircase is a main feature of the lobby.  
The problem is, it isn’t clear how to get to the second story since Schinkel only reveals half of the staircase on the wall and does not make the stairs visible at the level where the visitor first enters the museum. From my history class lecture I knew where the stairs were so it made my decision less overwhelming.

You walk through the opening between the staircases. In front of you, you see part of a rotunda that slightly mimics the Parthenon in Rome.

BUT, on your way to the rotunda (pictured above), if you look to the right and/or left, you’ll see the staircase.

Ah. Beautiful. It’s so simple, elegant, yet demanding in its presence. The steps aren’t as high as normal and the tread (where your foot steps) is longer than most typical interior steps. It forces you to walk slowly and take your time.

In the picture below, the gray square is where you stand between the lobby (on left) and the rotunda (on right). It causes a moment of pause between those two spaces.

As you reach the landing at the top of this first set of steps, you are faced with a solid wall that allows you to turn directions and introduces the view of the green space outside and beyond the building. Suddenly you find yourself on the staircase that you first noticed when you walked into the lobby.

I have never been on a staircase as grand as the one Schinkel designed for this museum. It felt wonderful to be inside this historical piece of architecture and to be able to experience all of those notes that I wrote down in my history class.

Oh! And what about the artwork, you ask?

Right. Museums. Artwork.

The Altes Museum contains a very well known classical art collection. That made it even more inviting for me as I enjoy classical art and as a Greek American I am proud to walk through the Greek exhibits. 

I highly recommend the Altes Museum for your itinerary the next time you visit Berlin. It’s something you don’t want to miss!  Plus, you’ll know where the staircase is!